Blog Post
GARDEN
GARDENING COLUMN JANUARY 2020
- by Matt Gow
- •
- 09 Mar, 2020
This summer has been especially dry, hot and even very windy, with these natural factors combining with our already heat stressed plants can be discouraging in our gardens. We have even been watching decade’s old trees like eucalyptus and non-native pine trees, either dying back losing branch limbs one at a time. In some cases, eucalyptus as well-established large Moreton bay figs is trying to prevent moisture loss by shedding most of their leaves. This is a tree natural defence when facing these extremes and although it is shocking to observe gives our trees an easy way for minimizing water loss through their leaves. If this is occurring at the moment keep a record of extreme hot days or even weekly temperatures will help to understand this tough time in our gardens. The reaction that our plants give, may help to understand how to help them survive over the next few summer months ahead.
Many of our customers have commented they are noticing that there are a lot more shrubs and trees in glorious bloom this season as to previously. Jacaranda, Silky oaks, Poincianas have their dramatic floral displays in abundance this season. Even fruit and production plants, in our gardens are flowering heavier and longer currently. This shows an important sign that our plants are suffering with so much stress that they are producing many more flowers to be pollinated into a viable seed. The harmony of our natural world produces at great expense to our plant in an attempt to keep the future ongoing species success. Even producing such floral blooms can become more taxing on our plants and can be too much that the flowering plants may even drop fruits and other types of edible parts of our plants to minimize water being lost from the plant. All types of this occurrence are dramatic to see, though it is a very effective way nature can prevent plant deaths. So, what can we do to help our gardens?
When we water around our gardens do so with the best technique of deep root soaking once a week to prevent hot soils drying out. This will minimise water being wasted if only applied to surface feeding roots and produces a weaker plant overall. As well as keeping our plants alive above the surface this will encourage stronger, well developed roots that will grow deeper into soils creating a healthier plant, more resilient to heat stress and drought.
Soil conditioning and water saving wetting agents combined with fish emulsion can be applied to drying soils, they act to retain even moisture longer in soils and potting mixes. Even using grey water from the house can be effective in some instances where trees will need extra water; using recycled grey water can help. Be careful using recycled water around food production crops, as bacteria may be transferred from the water to your crop. Check also that you are using low phosphate washing liquid so that it doesn’t harm your natives, they really can’t cope with much phosphorous. I’ve found liquid washing soaps a little better than granular as it has less residual salt. By using grey water in my garden once a week to supplement my watering schedule helps on retaining moisture in my garden
If we are applying mulches to our gardens this slows water loss from evaporation, as well preventing weed growth, mulch helps to insulate surface roots from these tough conditions. By improving soils structure as the mulches break down to humus rich composted soils is a very effective way of recharging dry and compacted soils, as well helps with our worms to survive as well. Come into our nursery and talk to us about other water saving techniques, as we are always willing to help thru this dry hot summer.
Keep growing
Matt Gow
Many of our customers have commented they are noticing that there are a lot more shrubs and trees in glorious bloom this season as to previously. Jacaranda, Silky oaks, Poincianas have their dramatic floral displays in abundance this season. Even fruit and production plants, in our gardens are flowering heavier and longer currently. This shows an important sign that our plants are suffering with so much stress that they are producing many more flowers to be pollinated into a viable seed. The harmony of our natural world produces at great expense to our plant in an attempt to keep the future ongoing species success. Even producing such floral blooms can become more taxing on our plants and can be too much that the flowering plants may even drop fruits and other types of edible parts of our plants to minimize water being lost from the plant. All types of this occurrence are dramatic to see, though it is a very effective way nature can prevent plant deaths. So, what can we do to help our gardens?
When we water around our gardens do so with the best technique of deep root soaking once a week to prevent hot soils drying out. This will minimise water being wasted if only applied to surface feeding roots and produces a weaker plant overall. As well as keeping our plants alive above the surface this will encourage stronger, well developed roots that will grow deeper into soils creating a healthier plant, more resilient to heat stress and drought.
Soil conditioning and water saving wetting agents combined with fish emulsion can be applied to drying soils, they act to retain even moisture longer in soils and potting mixes. Even using grey water from the house can be effective in some instances where trees will need extra water; using recycled grey water can help. Be careful using recycled water around food production crops, as bacteria may be transferred from the water to your crop. Check also that you are using low phosphate washing liquid so that it doesn’t harm your natives, they really can’t cope with much phosphorous. I’ve found liquid washing soaps a little better than granular as it has less residual salt. By using grey water in my garden once a week to supplement my watering schedule helps on retaining moisture in my garden
If we are applying mulches to our gardens this slows water loss from evaporation, as well preventing weed growth, mulch helps to insulate surface roots from these tough conditions. By improving soils structure as the mulches break down to humus rich composted soils is a very effective way of recharging dry and compacted soils, as well helps with our worms to survive as well. Come into our nursery and talk to us about other water saving techniques, as we are always willing to help thru this dry hot summer.
Keep growing
Matt Gow
Are you concerned with the terrible dry period that seems to have been going on now in our district for a few years? The relentless decline in average rainfalls seems to be getting worse this summer season as well the higher than average temperatures looks like we are going to experience these drought conditions a while longer. At least we can look at what we can do to ensure our gardens retain moisture for as long as possible. I can give a few handy tips that can be quite simple that will keep us a little more positive about our gardens while we endure these high temperatures and manage with soils that can now be prone to drying out very fast.
Firstly, we can investigate our soils. One of the biggest problems with water loss can be on a hot windy day, water from the top few centimetres of soils can quickly evaporate. If we are able to minimise this loss or at least slow it down, we are able to give our plants a fighting chance of survival in the upcoming months of summer weather extremes. Most of our shallow root systems plants can benefit from adding an insulating barrier that protects plants vulnerable surface roots from drying out. Plants like camellia, azalea, pines, and young rose bushes can be affected if these surface roots dye due to water loss. Even our treasured fruit production trees like citrus particularly benefit from applying a 50mm cover of mulch during these times of stress. As well the vegetable patch requires a mulch layer for our leafy green vegetables like lettuce, silver beet, corn, tomatoes and beans crops. Any kind of mulch really will help, though I have found that sugar cane and pea straw types are very efficient, quite cost effective even if used in our larger sized gardens. Once spread over our gardens soils it aids protection like a blanket over the surface, protects the soil from wind and baking hot temperatures. Make sure to keep mulches away from plants stems as this can cause stem rot problems over time. I also like to spray water over the top of mulches once firstly applied to prevent the drier mulches absorbing moisture directly from our garden that we are trying to protect. Dry mulches can also be lost in heavy winds so adding a small amount of water at the start settles mulches and prevents the water loses immediately.
We can also look at moisture control, pruning back of shrubs and bushes, limiting the size of our plants height or overall canopy reduces the need for the plant to require as much water as it was using. Take advantage of finished flowering spring shrubs by removing around a third of plants size by pruning back now. These include Grevillea, Callistemon, Acacias, as well Rose bushes, Camellias, and most hedging plants. Once completed harvesting, stone fruits like nectarines, peaches and soon mango varieties. Trim back the whole tree by a third to manage new growth that will bear next seasons fruit on healthy stronger new growth of branches. This done now will ensure more fruiting bud sites for next years crop as well as assisting the plants overall development. Essentially a smaller plant size requires a lot less water to maintain good health.
Plants that are grown in pots or containers may also benefit from a little extra attention at this time as well. If your pots soil dries out too much any water that is used to penetrate is generally lost down the side of the pot, this is called soil shrinkage and very little water remains for long enough for the plants roots to absorb it. This obvious waste can be reduced quite simply by adding granular wetting agents or liquid wetting agents for increased absorption of water to our potting soils. Most do have a fish emulsion product added to the solution already this gives dry roots a little stimulating effect, encourages better root systems driving roots down deeper into the soils can give our plants much more strength and ability to thrive in these adverse conditions much easier. Come into our nursery and discuss water saving techniques with us. We can offer many easy ways to help throughout this challenging season.
Keep your ga rden spirits up
Matt Gow
Firstly, we can investigate our soils. One of the biggest problems with water loss can be on a hot windy day, water from the top few centimetres of soils can quickly evaporate. If we are able to minimise this loss or at least slow it down, we are able to give our plants a fighting chance of survival in the upcoming months of summer weather extremes. Most of our shallow root systems plants can benefit from adding an insulating barrier that protects plants vulnerable surface roots from drying out. Plants like camellia, azalea, pines, and young rose bushes can be affected if these surface roots dye due to water loss. Even our treasured fruit production trees like citrus particularly benefit from applying a 50mm cover of mulch during these times of stress. As well the vegetable patch requires a mulch layer for our leafy green vegetables like lettuce, silver beet, corn, tomatoes and beans crops. Any kind of mulch really will help, though I have found that sugar cane and pea straw types are very efficient, quite cost effective even if used in our larger sized gardens. Once spread over our gardens soils it aids protection like a blanket over the surface, protects the soil from wind and baking hot temperatures. Make sure to keep mulches away from plants stems as this can cause stem rot problems over time. I also like to spray water over the top of mulches once firstly applied to prevent the drier mulches absorbing moisture directly from our garden that we are trying to protect. Dry mulches can also be lost in heavy winds so adding a small amount of water at the start settles mulches and prevents the water loses immediately.
We can also look at moisture control, pruning back of shrubs and bushes, limiting the size of our plants height or overall canopy reduces the need for the plant to require as much water as it was using. Take advantage of finished flowering spring shrubs by removing around a third of plants size by pruning back now. These include Grevillea, Callistemon, Acacias, as well Rose bushes, Camellias, and most hedging plants. Once completed harvesting, stone fruits like nectarines, peaches and soon mango varieties. Trim back the whole tree by a third to manage new growth that will bear next seasons fruit on healthy stronger new growth of branches. This done now will ensure more fruiting bud sites for next years crop as well as assisting the plants overall development. Essentially a smaller plant size requires a lot less water to maintain good health.
Plants that are grown in pots or containers may also benefit from a little extra attention at this time as well. If your pots soil dries out too much any water that is used to penetrate is generally lost down the side of the pot, this is called soil shrinkage and very little water remains for long enough for the plants roots to absorb it. This obvious waste can be reduced quite simply by adding granular wetting agents or liquid wetting agents for increased absorption of water to our potting soils. Most do have a fish emulsion product added to the solution already this gives dry roots a little stimulating effect, encourages better root systems driving roots down deeper into the soils can give our plants much more strength and ability to thrive in these adverse conditions much easier. Come into our nursery and discuss water saving techniques with us. We can offer many easy ways to help throughout this challenging season.
Keep your ga rden spirits up
Matt Gow
Are your gardens lacking in that springtime flush of new growth, or are your plants holding on though not growing just surviving. With the obvious lack of rain that we do normally have at this time of season, your plants maybe suffering because of your soil’s health. Mostly very dry compacted soils will repel water, rather than absorbing and retaining moisture for longer around your plants root zone. To improve your soils health and tilling ability you can supplement with a super tonic that when used often will give life back to your soil and your plants. Liquid worm juice can be the answer easy to apply in diluted form assists soil structure as well as giving a real boost in growth and health to our plants.
The beneficial living microorganisms in liquid worm juice as well as enzymatic bacteria adds living organisms benefits by releasing naturally occurring nutrients and moisture to our gardens with outstanding results. Unlike solid forms of compost, the liquid juice is already decomposed and is ready for plants to benefit immediately from a few applications.
There are a few products available in the market that have liquid worm juice concentrate ready to mix and apply to gardens. Gogo juice liquid concentrate is a very effective and easy to use product that adds millions of beneficial bacteria back to our gardens. At home I do prefer to use my own worm farm that uses up to 4kg of my kitchen waste scraps, every week. Of course, that limits my family’s impact on landfill sites as well as giving me a fabulous free plant tonic, this involves my whole family sorting out what can and shouldn’t be put into our worm farm.
Generally speaking, worms will devour anything that was once living. Though I do try to keep meat, bones, onions and citrus peels out of my worm café, they really cause more bad bacteria than benefit to my worm’s diet. Diversity is the key to a good all- round worm juice nutrient, by adding various scraps as well as green waste, including a handful of your garden’s soils weekly. The worms use the dirty grit from your garden to help chew thru the organic matter more efficiently. Once enough liquid compost has come thru the bottom collection tray of my worm farm it is ready to be concentrated down to a weak tea like consistency and added to my fortnightly routine of fertilizing. Though a normal ratio for dilution maybe 100ml of worm juice to 1 litre of water, this is not exact as your compost liquid maybe stronger than others depends on what it is decomposed from. A general rule is it should look like a weak tea colour before applying to our plants to reduce burn.
Maintaining your worm farms moisture and even temperatures can be as simple as having a worm farm outdoors, close to the kitchen in a sheltered or shady spot, so that my worms and compost remain moist, as our worms need moisture to survive in their compost home. Adding newspaper to the top of the compost helps it from drying out. Always check that your decomposing material is breaking down well and remaining somewhat moist consistently. Adding a soil conditioner made for worm farms is available. This can help to assist your worms in composting all of your waste. Well worth the time and investing into our soil’s health remains still one very efficient way of maximizing your gardening efforts.
Keep growing
Matt Gow
The beneficial living microorganisms in liquid worm juice as well as enzymatic bacteria adds living organisms benefits by releasing naturally occurring nutrients and moisture to our gardens with outstanding results. Unlike solid forms of compost, the liquid juice is already decomposed and is ready for plants to benefit immediately from a few applications.
There are a few products available in the market that have liquid worm juice concentrate ready to mix and apply to gardens. Gogo juice liquid concentrate is a very effective and easy to use product that adds millions of beneficial bacteria back to our gardens. At home I do prefer to use my own worm farm that uses up to 4kg of my kitchen waste scraps, every week. Of course, that limits my family’s impact on landfill sites as well as giving me a fabulous free plant tonic, this involves my whole family sorting out what can and shouldn’t be put into our worm farm.
Generally speaking, worms will devour anything that was once living. Though I do try to keep meat, bones, onions and citrus peels out of my worm café, they really cause more bad bacteria than benefit to my worm’s diet. Diversity is the key to a good all- round worm juice nutrient, by adding various scraps as well as green waste, including a handful of your garden’s soils weekly. The worms use the dirty grit from your garden to help chew thru the organic matter more efficiently. Once enough liquid compost has come thru the bottom collection tray of my worm farm it is ready to be concentrated down to a weak tea like consistency and added to my fortnightly routine of fertilizing. Though a normal ratio for dilution maybe 100ml of worm juice to 1 litre of water, this is not exact as your compost liquid maybe stronger than others depends on what it is decomposed from. A general rule is it should look like a weak tea colour before applying to our plants to reduce burn.
Maintaining your worm farms moisture and even temperatures can be as simple as having a worm farm outdoors, close to the kitchen in a sheltered or shady spot, so that my worms and compost remain moist, as our worms need moisture to survive in their compost home. Adding newspaper to the top of the compost helps it from drying out. Always check that your decomposing material is breaking down well and remaining somewhat moist consistently. Adding a soil conditioner made for worm farms is available. This can help to assist your worms in composting all of your waste. Well worth the time and investing into our soil’s health remains still one very efficient way of maximizing your gardening efforts.
Keep growing
Matt Gow
With no rain of late and very little forecast our gardens maybe struggling to survive, though there is one plant that can thrive in these harsh dry conditions worth looking at.
Proteas are native plants to southern Africa and belong to the same family of plants as our Australian natives Banksia, Grevillea and Telopea species. This family is known as Proteaceae does also include another genera Leucadendron and
Leucospernum. This very large family of plants are from the ancient super continent of Gondwana era. As one of the very first groups of flowering plants able to adapt, spread seed, and diversify throughout the ancient continent. The Proteaceae family is one of the most dominant plant families growing in the southern hemisphere. Proteas can fit into Australian native gardens quite easily and will be well suited to Australian native landscapes. Whether it be a garden theme of secluded quiet courtyards, open entertaining areas, to large open garden beds. They give you year-
round colour and exceptional long-lasting cut flower displays, brought into the home decorative floral displays.
Protea Cynaroides Little Prince flowering protea have flowers of white with red fur like petals. Grows only to 1 metre, ideal for smaller sunny spots or can suit pot culture. Remember to use a specialty native potting mix to pots as regular potting mixes have too much nutrients especially phosphorous, for these plants.
Leucospernum glabra x tottum known as Carnival red. A very noteworthy addition to any contemporary style garden. Grows to 1.5metres high and shrub like 1.5metres wide. This flower has got to be seen believe me. Also known as pin cushions. Leucospernums have bright coloured pin cushion flower heads that demand attention.
Leucodendrons are unique as they offer outstanding colours that seasonally change throughout the year. Best times to enjoy these guys are in Autumn and Springtime when their dazzling colours put out a great foliage display. Once again suited to Australian native gardens and growing conditions similar to Australian landscapes. Leucadendron laureoleum x salignum Jolly Joker has variegated blaze of colour that also produces a long cut flower. Grows to 2 metres and is very successful in larger gardens, worth considering.
Proteas prefer a sandy loam or friable soil. If you have heavy clay soils it is necessary to first mound up the soil; to improve it add in compost and gypsum to break up clay. Allow to sit for a week to start reaction from gypsum prior to planting out. Proteas grow in fairly acidic soils as this reflects the conditions where they originate from South Africa and Australia. Proteas thrive best in full all-day sun some species can also be grown in semi shaded areas though check varieties available. The more sun your Protea receives the more it will flower for you. As to pruning this gives you a chance to shape your plant. Keeping it compact and looking great. Young plants need to be tip pruned in spring and late summer. Older plants prune as soon as flowers have finished, remember though leave up to 10cm of cut flower stem
with some remaining leaf below to support new flower sites the following year. All proteas are very low feeding plants, if required to boost growth at early stages a slow release for native is adequate. Most Proteas are frost tolerant to -2 c though in a year or so will have adapted to colder climates. Some varieties can even stand up to -6 c consult your nursery person to find the right type for your situation. I have many of these varieties ready for sale. Pay us a visit to view the display and the choice is yours.
Keep growing
Matt Gow
Proteas are native plants to southern Africa and belong to the same family of plants as our Australian natives Banksia, Grevillea and Telopea species. This family is known as Proteaceae does also include another genera Leucadendron and
Leucospernum. This very large family of plants are from the ancient super continent of Gondwana era. As one of the very first groups of flowering plants able to adapt, spread seed, and diversify throughout the ancient continent. The Proteaceae family is one of the most dominant plant families growing in the southern hemisphere. Proteas can fit into Australian native gardens quite easily and will be well suited to Australian native landscapes. Whether it be a garden theme of secluded quiet courtyards, open entertaining areas, to large open garden beds. They give you year-
round colour and exceptional long-lasting cut flower displays, brought into the home decorative floral displays.
Protea Cynaroides Little Prince flowering protea have flowers of white with red fur like petals. Grows only to 1 metre, ideal for smaller sunny spots or can suit pot culture. Remember to use a specialty native potting mix to pots as regular potting mixes have too much nutrients especially phosphorous, for these plants.
Leucospernum glabra x tottum known as Carnival red. A very noteworthy addition to any contemporary style garden. Grows to 1.5metres high and shrub like 1.5metres wide. This flower has got to be seen believe me. Also known as pin cushions. Leucospernums have bright coloured pin cushion flower heads that demand attention.
Leucodendrons are unique as they offer outstanding colours that seasonally change throughout the year. Best times to enjoy these guys are in Autumn and Springtime when their dazzling colours put out a great foliage display. Once again suited to Australian native gardens and growing conditions similar to Australian landscapes. Leucadendron laureoleum x salignum Jolly Joker has variegated blaze of colour that also produces a long cut flower. Grows to 2 metres and is very successful in larger gardens, worth considering.
Proteas prefer a sandy loam or friable soil. If you have heavy clay soils it is necessary to first mound up the soil; to improve it add in compost and gypsum to break up clay. Allow to sit for a week to start reaction from gypsum prior to planting out. Proteas grow in fairly acidic soils as this reflects the conditions where they originate from South Africa and Australia. Proteas thrive best in full all-day sun some species can also be grown in semi shaded areas though check varieties available. The more sun your Protea receives the more it will flower for you. As to pruning this gives you a chance to shape your plant. Keeping it compact and looking great. Young plants need to be tip pruned in spring and late summer. Older plants prune as soon as flowers have finished, remember though leave up to 10cm of cut flower stem
with some remaining leaf below to support new flower sites the following year. All proteas are very low feeding plants, if required to boost growth at early stages a slow release for native is adequate. Most Proteas are frost tolerant to -2 c though in a year or so will have adapted to colder climates. Some varieties can even stand up to -6 c consult your nursery person to find the right type for your situation. I have many of these varieties ready for sale. Pay us a visit to view the display and the choice is yours.
Keep growing
Matt Gow
As the cold weather comes in so many natural ways, I’ve always found that this time of year can be some of the hardest time for our gardens. Plants that are struggling for light and warmth, can show signs of stress, especially as our August Ekka time winds have began again this year. To protect young trees or shrubs from damaging winds and prevent breakages, drive two 25mm garden stakes either side of the trunk try to avoid plants root ball. Tie off stakes using tree supporting strapping, tighten just firmly and make sure the trunk can move a little and sway, this movement strengthens overall growth of the developing tree. A good deep watering now during this dry period, can encourage new early root growth pre-spring. This can help relieve our plants poor suffering condition and will prepare for new growth in the next few months. It is also a good time to give roses and other shrubs that have finished flowering a good cut back. Our roses can be cut back to a few well shaped stems. Try to shape bush into a V shaped pattern, and remove any pour developed stems or bad growth habits. Always use clean secateurs and wash frequently in solution of methylated spirit 10ml to 1 litre water. This prevents bacteria and disease spreading between cut roses, spray cut roses with a liquid lime/sulphur as soon as your finished pruning this also stops fungal rots in rose stems on the dormant bush. Clean away any insect damage or rotted material away from exposed rose stems, a light brush can remove most of this damage easily. A good 50mm layer of well-rotted cow manure compost can be added to enrich the soil as it breaks down in the
next few months. It can also offer a natural insulation from chilling night time temps, as it retains warmth from the day and keeps the soil temperature more even. Mushroom compost can also be added to the rose bed now as it offers more beneficial microbes and soil improvers naturally to starved garden beds. By the time spring comes around our plants will race into new growing season given a little love now can go a long way to improving their appearance and health.
Winter bloomers like nectarine, peaches, mulberries are all developing buds of lovely pink flowers this month. Wow, what a show when you see rows of these flowering beauties, stone fruit growing young fruit without a single leaf on the trunks and branches. As the fruit develops during winter most insects are not going to spoil your fruit as it’s still to cold for fruit fly, still spray foliage every few weeks with wettable sulphur. This stops disease infecting your crop and can be used also as an organic pesticide. Any insects that may be able to handle the cold will be kept away from developing fruit, other creatures like possums, kangaroos, or hares require fencing or deterrents from fruiting trees. Birds are usually not a problem usually until the fruit has matured and is close to be harvested. Try to hang protection nets up over bushes well before fruit has developed and begins ripening. Water regularly to increase fruit size, and flavour. Feed plants every 8 weeks a good slow release organic fertilizer. Pelletized form naturally breaks down slower, this can help with a more gradual increase to plants feeding less, at this time of the year. By the time it has broken down and been taken up by our plants the warmer weather will begin and then we can give our gardens a good boost for the growing seasons ahead.
Keep Growing
Matt Gow
next few months. It can also offer a natural insulation from chilling night time temps, as it retains warmth from the day and keeps the soil temperature more even. Mushroom compost can also be added to the rose bed now as it offers more beneficial microbes and soil improvers naturally to starved garden beds. By the time spring comes around our plants will race into new growing season given a little love now can go a long way to improving their appearance and health.
Winter bloomers like nectarine, peaches, mulberries are all developing buds of lovely pink flowers this month. Wow, what a show when you see rows of these flowering beauties, stone fruit growing young fruit without a single leaf on the trunks and branches. As the fruit develops during winter most insects are not going to spoil your fruit as it’s still to cold for fruit fly, still spray foliage every few weeks with wettable sulphur. This stops disease infecting your crop and can be used also as an organic pesticide. Any insects that may be able to handle the cold will be kept away from developing fruit, other creatures like possums, kangaroos, or hares require fencing or deterrents from fruiting trees. Birds are usually not a problem usually until the fruit has matured and is close to be harvested. Try to hang protection nets up over bushes well before fruit has developed and begins ripening. Water regularly to increase fruit size, and flavour. Feed plants every 8 weeks a good slow release organic fertilizer. Pelletized form naturally breaks down slower, this can help with a more gradual increase to plants feeding less, at this time of the year. By the time it has broken down and been taken up by our plants the warmer weather will begin and then we can give our gardens a good boost for the growing seasons ahead.
Keep Growing
Matt Gow
Feeling chilly on these past winter mornings? We as active gardeners certainly feel it. Well what about our plants. As the temperatures drop quite low at night this increases the chance of our loved plants in our gardens suffering in the cold. There are several types of protection we can do to limit this exposure due to the chance of frost burning or cutting through our gardens. Whether they are newly planted young plants or even those suited to warmer climates it is important to be checking those early freezes that most of our gardens here may experience. Providing a shelter to these plants can be relatively easy using frost protection cloth. This fabric cloth can maximise effect should be wrapped over the top of our plants especially where our new growth that hasn’t hardened off yet and needs this insulation from the freezing temperatures. If we encase our fabric cloth right down to the ground by the sides of our plants, it may slow down the heat loss as daytime temperatures remain trapped within. This will trap the warmth from the ground and then maintain a more even temperature within our tent. A good and easy way to protect most of our plants in the big freeze.
Placing heat reservoirs such as clay house bricks, or even rocks next to our plants will heat up during the day and as the temperatures drops of a night-time, the heat reserve may assist in keeping more heat within our tent like structure.
There are foliar sprays available such as Envy that are applied to all parts of our plant provides a good protective barrier that shields the extreme cold from freezing our foliage especially well. This can increase tolerances to frost up to -4 degrees. This type of protection is very useful though can be limited. With any sort of new growth, it must be sprayed to ensure all round protection during the frost season. Applying a thicker layer of mulches to insulate the surrounding ground and surface roots will offer more protection in cold period. Ensure not to place mulches up against trunks of our plants though leave a gap between so that it doesn’t incubate nasty bugs or disease.
Other types of plant protection may include prior to freezing temperatures rolling in are applying Seasol at twice the recommended rate repeating fortnightly during the winter. This can reduce the plants cells freezing point to -5c. As well a foliar spray of silica applied to drip effect can build up a plant’s resistance to extremely cold weather. It offers an increase in strength and overall health of our plants. Most plants if in a good state of health leading into winter are more robust and maybe able to survive with minimal damage under variable temperatures.
Though if frost damage has happened to our plants, leave the affected burnt plant tissue on the plant until the chance of frost has ended. Although not pretty to look at this damage maybe used as a protection for the rest of our plant from further damage. Remove only once temperatures have increased again in the new growing season, Springtime.
Another avenue of protection is to plant into pots, during the cold season, meaning that if temperatures drop quickly we can take our plants into a more protected climate such as greenhouse or even closer to the house or patio. Then once
temperatures of a night start to increase we can think about transplanting back into our gardens. Watering needs for gardens or pots will decrease especially as daytime temperatures will be lower than most of the year. As to the timing of watering, try to limit afternoon watering, early morning is much more preferred by our gardens. This allows garden beds or pots to drain away excess water before night time temperatures cool off.
Keep Growing
Matt Gow
Placing heat reservoirs such as clay house bricks, or even rocks next to our plants will heat up during the day and as the temperatures drops of a night-time, the heat reserve may assist in keeping more heat within our tent like structure.
There are foliar sprays available such as Envy that are applied to all parts of our plant provides a good protective barrier that shields the extreme cold from freezing our foliage especially well. This can increase tolerances to frost up to -4 degrees. This type of protection is very useful though can be limited. With any sort of new growth, it must be sprayed to ensure all round protection during the frost season. Applying a thicker layer of mulches to insulate the surrounding ground and surface roots will offer more protection in cold period. Ensure not to place mulches up against trunks of our plants though leave a gap between so that it doesn’t incubate nasty bugs or disease.
Other types of plant protection may include prior to freezing temperatures rolling in are applying Seasol at twice the recommended rate repeating fortnightly during the winter. This can reduce the plants cells freezing point to -5c. As well a foliar spray of silica applied to drip effect can build up a plant’s resistance to extremely cold weather. It offers an increase in strength and overall health of our plants. Most plants if in a good state of health leading into winter are more robust and maybe able to survive with minimal damage under variable temperatures.
Though if frost damage has happened to our plants, leave the affected burnt plant tissue on the plant until the chance of frost has ended. Although not pretty to look at this damage maybe used as a protection for the rest of our plant from further damage. Remove only once temperatures have increased again in the new growing season, Springtime.
Another avenue of protection is to plant into pots, during the cold season, meaning that if temperatures drop quickly we can take our plants into a more protected climate such as greenhouse or even closer to the house or patio. Then once
temperatures of a night start to increase we can think about transplanting back into our gardens. Watering needs for gardens or pots will decrease especially as daytime temperatures will be lower than most of the year. As to the timing of watering, try to limit afternoon watering, early morning is much more preferred by our gardens. This allows garden beds or pots to drain away excess water before night time temperatures cool off.
Keep Growing
Matt Gow
Put some success into your succulents for a rewarding plant that cares for very little in return. Let’s rediscover the wide world of the succulent species that provides a huge range of natural design, texture, colour, forms and sizes. Especially tolerant of very low water needs, easy care low maintenance. As well as have a great resistance to attacking pests and disease generally speaking. There can be just about the right succulent for most wanted situations from growing in gardens, pots that can also include table decorations for special occasions. Succulents have certainly evolved naturally even with us humans and animals in most countries of the world.
The name succulent comes from Latin meaning ‘Juice, sap, moisture.’ This of course refers to this species of plant that is able to store water in their leaves, stems and branches even below ground in their roots. This adaptation allows them to survive also thrive in impossible harsh environments including long hot dry spells. Naturally found in arid conditions like deserts, sandy outcrops and even salty marsh mudflats. Habitually growing in these areas that are known for not being able to support most plant life.
Matt Gow
The name succulent comes from Latin meaning ‘Juice, sap, moisture.’ This of course refers to this species of plant that is able to store water in their leaves, stems and branches even below ground in their roots. This adaptation allows them to survive also thrive in impossible harsh environments including long hot dry spells. Naturally found in arid conditions like deserts, sandy outcrops and even salty marsh mudflats. Habitually growing in these areas that are known for not being able to support most plant life.
On looking at our succulents their beauty can be seen to have fleshy like swollen or thick tough waxy like leaves, as well their branches and stems. Designed by nature they can offer so many various looks. Including rosettes, spiralling shapes the list can go on. Mother nature at her best in the design and adaptation allows these plants to utilise and retain the most out of light and water requirements sparingly given to them in harsh environments they have come from. Their waxy outer leaf surface can repel rainwater efficiently to funnel down to the plants root zone, without the normal evaporative loss in most garden or plant situations.
Another curiosity of this species is that most perform their photosynthesis ‘plants ability to create its own food’, at night-time. As opposed to the rest of the plant world, would enjoy creating this energy during the daytime. Not the case for our succulents. This adaptation helps to prevent these plants from drying out during the day and especially in very dry hot bright situations, as they begin this process as the elements are not as extreme. The classic end result is that succulents are able to retain water, moisture much longer for their survival success.
Most of us gardeners would agree that these unique, spiralling and other fantastic geometric wonders are best shown off in mass planting either in garden beds or suitable pot culture, this can be unlimited by your own imagination. Creating art pieces with pots can offer another avenue to highlight our treasures. From using logs, rocks, unused bins, galvanised buckets, even old wheelbarrows the sky is limitless to your creations. Try inventing your own smaller garden for a courtyard or balcony where garden space may be limited, the rewards can give a real connection with living nature increases your green life harmony.
Keep Growing
Matt Gow
Now that we are in the cooler months of autumn, I am looking forward to selecting and planting out the world’s most popular flower of course I mean Roses. Most of us have a favourite rose flower, maybe the most heavenly perfume, that can awaken all of our senses. Others talk about the form or appearance of the flower. How tight or loose petal forms the flower, the most unusual colour, repeat flowering potential, or even best suited to our climate in SE QLD. Some of the most trusted for their appeal, fragrance, and quality are varieties include hybrid tea roses. Suited for their strength of growth, flowering potential and generally long stems great for cut flower displays. Buds and flowers can be more pointed and tend to open slower than other varieties like floribundas. Floribundas advantage is they can offer a bouquet of multiple flowering buds free flowing all over, rather than producing single stemmed roses. Most are highly fragrant like Hybrid Tea roses, have excellent vigour and both certainly have performed well traditionally.
Some of my favourites in the Hybrid tea range are Mister Lincoln, this has deep red large double flowers. Has a strong perfume, that forms tight cupped flowers, on a single stem, great for the flower vase. Grows vigorously and is a high performer in our district. Blue moon has large double lilac blooms. Amazing perfume, highly scented and is an excellent variety to consider. Just Joey also has double soft orange very large and sweetly scented free flowering shrub, also has good disease resistance.
In the Floribunda range, proven roses are Gold Bunny offers profuse large double cupped lemon-yellow flowers. Continuously blooms high quality flowers, on a vigorous strong bush. The beautiful old-fashioned blooms of the Old Port rose are highly fragrant. Blooms of rich red to mauve colours on and a higher petal count type that our old-fashioned roses can only provide.
No matter which of the choice that you decide on either Hybrid teas or Floribunda most of these two varieties will perform very well for you, talk to our garden staff if you would like more information on selecting your cultivar.
Matt Gow
Some of my favourites in the Hybrid tea range are Mister Lincoln, this has deep red large double flowers. Has a strong perfume, that forms tight cupped flowers, on a single stem, great for the flower vase. Grows vigorously and is a high performer in our district. Blue moon has large double lilac blooms. Amazing perfume, highly scented and is an excellent variety to consider. Just Joey also has double soft orange very large and sweetly scented free flowering shrub, also has good disease resistance.
In the Floribunda range, proven roses are Gold Bunny offers profuse large double cupped lemon-yellow flowers. Continuously blooms high quality flowers, on a vigorous strong bush. The beautiful old-fashioned blooms of the Old Port rose are highly fragrant. Blooms of rich red to mauve colours on and a higher petal count type that our old-fashioned roses can only provide.
No matter which of the choice that you decide on either Hybrid teas or Floribunda most of these two varieties will perform very well for you, talk to our garden staff if you would like more information on selecting your cultivar.
The versatility of planting roses is amazing, whether in garden beds, mass displayed, or a single specimen used as an accent plant. In turf areas can create a wonderful appeal by planting into decorative, terracotta or glazed pots. Most of the guidelines for planting, care and maintenance remain the same. Roses need to have at least 6 hours of full sun a day to grow well. Increase your success with either adjusting soil with adding well composted manure, preferably add fresh garden soil, free draining is very important. Roses do not grow well in long periods of heavy soaked soils. Support plant growth and performance with applying rose fertilizer every three months to maximise flowering. In pots use a premium potting mix or speciality rose potting mix. An excellent addition to fertilizers is Triple Boost liquid tonic for boosting plants resistance to extremes and increasing blooms, as well longer life for cut flowers. Adding sulphate of potash on planting time is recommended to encourage root growth and builds plants overall health. If already planted out existing roses can be supplemented well with Silica Potash, very quick acting as is applied as a foliar spray. This will increase the general health of the roses root system, that can develop a stronger shrub that can repel pest and disease effectively. Disease and pest attack can be prevented with applying foliar spray dual action fungicide as well as insecticide, every few weeks. Regular deadheading spent flowers will also increase your blooms. With pruning, keep it as simple. In mid-winter July, I cut back shrubs by a half, taking care to formatively prune back into a vase shape shrub. Removing ill formed stems, or crossover branches rubbing against each other. After cutting rose bushes I use a fungicide to prevent dieback or disease getting into stems. Overall roses can offer us all such a great reward they are worth giving a try.
Keep GrowingMatt Gow
Orchids have a definite mystique that not all other flowering plants can offer. They have that special sort of elegance and wonderful appeal about their well-known floral displays. Generally speaking, most orchids can be grown easily with a little understanding of what they require to thrive. If we imitate a orchids natural habitat, you are on the way to keeping them happy for a long time. With regard to the more popular varieties that are easier to care for, once you know how to grow orchids, they can grow bigger and show more flowers to love.
Orchids grow in almost every continent in the world including here in Australia. Our own Queensland floral emblem is the Cooktown Orchid, spectacular mauve coloured flowering spikes last for months. Maintaining orchids is quite simple, here are some basics. These tips can also be useful with other varieties of orchids like the popular Phalaenopsis or moth orchid, which share similar care. As well, the fabulous ground orchid spathoglottis plicata, although this plant can be grown out in our gardens it really has a special place in our homes to enjoy in a pot, to show off to your visitors.
The right amount of light is very important to all of these orchids, commonly shaded windows or well-lit rooms will provide the right amount of light for growth. Your orchid will react to the location you provide by displaying greener leaves if light is too low. Though if too bright than leaves will appear yellow. In the worst case, sunburned leaves show brown spots, if this happens find a less bright location for your orchid. Keep experimenting till you can see their tolerances. Though, too little is normally a common mistake.
Orchids appreciate daytime temperatures of 21’C to 30’c. This range will induce flowering period. Night time temperatures of 6’c to 10’ range are acceptable, but don't let them freeze. If kept warm they will bloom year-round, if the temperatures are comfortable for you an orchid will be the same.
Leave finished flower spikes on the plant well after flowers has finished, this may encourage a second bloom later in the year on the older stems. Or cut 2 to 3 cm off the tip of the stem to a node, ‘scale type leaf look’. Be patient it will be worth the wait.
It’s best to water an orchid as it approaches dryness, usually twice a week in the warmer months. Take your plant to the sink, allow water to run freely through the bottom of the pot, check to see that all parts of the potting mix have been wet. Once a week I dilute an orchid fertilizer and apply to roots for better growth and the plant will bloom more consistently. All three varieties this season are blooming well and are available now in our nursery. Hope that these simple steps can help with your plants and remember once we have great success with growing orchids, they are addictive.
Keep Growing
Matt Gow
Orchids grow in almost every continent in the world including here in Australia. Our own Queensland floral emblem is the Cooktown Orchid, spectacular mauve coloured flowering spikes last for months. Maintaining orchids is quite simple, here are some basics. These tips can also be useful with other varieties of orchids like the popular Phalaenopsis or moth orchid, which share similar care. As well, the fabulous ground orchid spathoglottis plicata, although this plant can be grown out in our gardens it really has a special place in our homes to enjoy in a pot, to show off to your visitors.
The right amount of light is very important to all of these orchids, commonly shaded windows or well-lit rooms will provide the right amount of light for growth. Your orchid will react to the location you provide by displaying greener leaves if light is too low. Though if too bright than leaves will appear yellow. In the worst case, sunburned leaves show brown spots, if this happens find a less bright location for your orchid. Keep experimenting till you can see their tolerances. Though, too little is normally a common mistake.
Orchids appreciate daytime temperatures of 21’C to 30’c. This range will induce flowering period. Night time temperatures of 6’c to 10’ range are acceptable, but don't let them freeze. If kept warm they will bloom year-round, if the temperatures are comfortable for you an orchid will be the same.
Leave finished flower spikes on the plant well after flowers has finished, this may encourage a second bloom later in the year on the older stems. Or cut 2 to 3 cm off the tip of the stem to a node, ‘scale type leaf look’. Be patient it will be worth the wait.
It’s best to water an orchid as it approaches dryness, usually twice a week in the warmer months. Take your plant to the sink, allow water to run freely through the bottom of the pot, check to see that all parts of the potting mix have been wet. Once a week I dilute an orchid fertilizer and apply to roots for better growth and the plant will bloom more consistently. All three varieties this season are blooming well and are available now in our nursery. Hope that these simple steps can help with your plants and remember once we have great success with growing orchids, they are addictive.
Keep Growing
Matt Gow
With the beginning of the seasonal change comes the anticipation of change in my garden as well. Autumn can be the most rewarding time of year for us gardeners. Not only is it a lot more pleasant weather for us to enjoy and work out in the garden, it can also give us a new outlook on the coming of cooler months ahead. If we can begin planning now, we can enjoy so much that this season and winter can offer us.
March time is regarded as the perfect time to plant or sow seeds of our beautiful sweet peas. So lovely to look at and enjoy the sweet perfume that comes with these plants. Ensure that you have adequate supports or stakes to allow up to 1.8mtr flowering stems, vertical displays can help to soften garden walls or add to effect of an otherwise wasted area in our garden. Also, if you would like a fabulous springtime bulb flower show, then now is the time to prep your gardens soil. Springtime bulbs include freesia, daffodil, jonquils and one of my favourites for their colour variance are ranunculus. Get in early in this season to ensure that you have the best range to choose from, as bulbs can sell out quickly. Flowering bulbs are best planted in groups or meandering lines, kept in mass can have the best effect, for your flower garden. Ensure the changing sun's path with the change of the season, allows for enough bright sunlight to shower over your bulbs for at least 6 hours a day. Give the soil a till and work well rotted manure or compost into the top 20-30cm of garden beds, add handful of lime to each m2 of soil to improve break down of organic matter as your plant will rely on this for the best displays. Work in a good organic fertilizer with addition of sulphate of potash. Potash not only adds needed nutrients for bud and flower development it also builds up strength within the plants cells and tissue to prevent disease or pest harming our bulbs. Most varieties of bulbs like good drainage, but enough moisture at their roots to support rapid growth as they develop into stronger plants and longer lasting flower displays.
Of course, you can grow a lot of the bulb types, like daffodil or crocus in smaller type pots, they are well suited to these varieties. Whilst still warm, take care to protect pots from direct sunlight, as this can dry out your pot and the developing bulbs growth can be heavily affected. Whether in ground or in a pot you should take particular care as to planting depths of your bulbs. Not all bulbs need to be buried deep. Hippeastrums and freesia are planted just below soil level around 5cm deep. Gladiolus crocus a little deeper at 10 cm depth and daffodil and liliums can be best planted at 15cm depth. Always check the back label of your bulb variety for the recommended planting depth. This will ensure that your germination is more successful. At time of planting out my bulbs I add a generous amount of snail bait, try to choose the organic pet friendly type that is iron based, not only for protecting your new foliage from snails and slugs, as the snail bait breaks down it releases a little of the iron nutrients to our gardens. Place a few cane stakes to mark where you have planted out your bulbs so that you can identify where they have been buried for watering.
As well as flowering bulbs we can also plant out this season’s garlic now, as this crop takes up to 8 or 9 months to mature. I use certified garlic corms to ensure that they can produce best yields, this can also prevent diseases that have formed in the garlic plant of non certified types. Another of our tuber type plants are potatoes and sweet potatoes, these will be available in the coming weeks, get them in the ground soon, this gives them enough time to produce a bounty of spuds, prior to extreme cold of august and potential frost damage.
A plant that is closely related to the sweet potato (Ipomea batatas), that grows well here in our district, is the very unique and often rare to come across, Prince Kuhio vine. Here in Queensland we call it the cardinal creeper vine (Ipomea Horsfalliae). This flowers continuously nearly all year round in a warm sunny position, or partly shaded. It produces masses of lush green sprawling foliage and superb bright magenta flowers. Their buds prior to opening have a 5 to 10 cm trumpet like flower, this creeping vine has got to be seen to be believed and is such a great addition to our gardens. It is drought tolerant once developed and requires little maintenance throughout the year. I grow my Cardinal in a 40cm pot as it is in the potato family, which produce new plants from the mother plant through rhizome. This contains unwanted spreading into other parts of the garden. They also prefer to be kept from frost as it can affect foliage and flowers. Get in quick as this climbing vine is limited to once a year availability. Limited numbers of this rare plant are available.
Keep Growing
Matt Gow
March time is regarded as the perfect time to plant or sow seeds of our beautiful sweet peas. So lovely to look at and enjoy the sweet perfume that comes with these plants. Ensure that you have adequate supports or stakes to allow up to 1.8mtr flowering stems, vertical displays can help to soften garden walls or add to effect of an otherwise wasted area in our garden. Also, if you would like a fabulous springtime bulb flower show, then now is the time to prep your gardens soil. Springtime bulbs include freesia, daffodil, jonquils and one of my favourites for their colour variance are ranunculus. Get in early in this season to ensure that you have the best range to choose from, as bulbs can sell out quickly. Flowering bulbs are best planted in groups or meandering lines, kept in mass can have the best effect, for your flower garden. Ensure the changing sun's path with the change of the season, allows for enough bright sunlight to shower over your bulbs for at least 6 hours a day. Give the soil a till and work well rotted manure or compost into the top 20-30cm of garden beds, add handful of lime to each m2 of soil to improve break down of organic matter as your plant will rely on this for the best displays. Work in a good organic fertilizer with addition of sulphate of potash. Potash not only adds needed nutrients for bud and flower development it also builds up strength within the plants cells and tissue to prevent disease or pest harming our bulbs. Most varieties of bulbs like good drainage, but enough moisture at their roots to support rapid growth as they develop into stronger plants and longer lasting flower displays.
Of course, you can grow a lot of the bulb types, like daffodil or crocus in smaller type pots, they are well suited to these varieties. Whilst still warm, take care to protect pots from direct sunlight, as this can dry out your pot and the developing bulbs growth can be heavily affected. Whether in ground or in a pot you should take particular care as to planting depths of your bulbs. Not all bulbs need to be buried deep. Hippeastrums and freesia are planted just below soil level around 5cm deep. Gladiolus crocus a little deeper at 10 cm depth and daffodil and liliums can be best planted at 15cm depth. Always check the back label of your bulb variety for the recommended planting depth. This will ensure that your germination is more successful. At time of planting out my bulbs I add a generous amount of snail bait, try to choose the organic pet friendly type that is iron based, not only for protecting your new foliage from snails and slugs, as the snail bait breaks down it releases a little of the iron nutrients to our gardens. Place a few cane stakes to mark where you have planted out your bulbs so that you can identify where they have been buried for watering.
As well as flowering bulbs we can also plant out this season’s garlic now, as this crop takes up to 8 or 9 months to mature. I use certified garlic corms to ensure that they can produce best yields, this can also prevent diseases that have formed in the garlic plant of non certified types. Another of our tuber type plants are potatoes and sweet potatoes, these will be available in the coming weeks, get them in the ground soon, this gives them enough time to produce a bounty of spuds, prior to extreme cold of august and potential frost damage.
A plant that is closely related to the sweet potato (Ipomea batatas), that grows well here in our district, is the very unique and often rare to come across, Prince Kuhio vine. Here in Queensland we call it the cardinal creeper vine (Ipomea Horsfalliae). This flowers continuously nearly all year round in a warm sunny position, or partly shaded. It produces masses of lush green sprawling foliage and superb bright magenta flowers. Their buds prior to opening have a 5 to 10 cm trumpet like flower, this creeping vine has got to be seen to be believed and is such a great addition to our gardens. It is drought tolerant once developed and requires little maintenance throughout the year. I grow my Cardinal in a 40cm pot as it is in the potato family, which produce new plants from the mother plant through rhizome. This contains unwanted spreading into other parts of the garden. They also prefer to be kept from frost as it can affect foliage and flowers. Get in quick as this climbing vine is limited to once a year availability. Limited numbers of this rare plant are available.
Keep Growing
Matt Gow